up the mountains, down the caves

we left Manila at around 11pm on a Florida bus -- first destination : Banaue.

it was a 7-hour ride with 2 stopovers along the way. there wasn't much to look at from the window so in between naps, i listlessly stared at the road ahead instead, lulling myself into dizziness so i could nap again. Tarits who was sitting behind us was sound asleep while Cinch who sat at the right side of the bus next to us was dead to the world and quite very comfy for she has reserved 2 seats. one for her to sit on and the other for her feet. ha-ha!

we reached Banaue at around 6am. what a breathtaking sight! our first stop was at People's Restaurant for a quick breakfast. we sat on the balcony drinking our first cup of coffee while savoring the feel of fresh wind on our faces.

after gathering all our belongings, we rode a tryke going up to our accommodations for the night in Hiwang -- in a traditional Ifugao house. our guide, Charles, informed us that Judy Ann & Piolo Pascual used that very same Ifugao house for the movie "Don't Give Up On Us".

the first thing i looked for was the comfort room. there it was -- an outhouse actually, about 8 meters away from our Balai. i had to laugh when i saw the toilet bowl. it was i think just about a foot from the floor and i figured once i sat on it, i might not be able to stand up again.

as soon as we have dumped our bags, off we went for a little sightseeing and picture taking. pomelo and lemon trees were everywhere and i excitedly pointed them out to P.

we passed by the market on the way back to the balai. Charles and his friends took it upon themselves to charbroil the pork ribs for us, giving us time to look around the area before dinner. i loved everything around me -- the mountains, the rice terraces, the clouds, the native houses and carved chairs. Charles generously gave us a carved wooden stool to take home for Ayel.

it was only 4:30 in the afternoon but the clouds were already dark and the mountains silent. the only sounds we heard were that of our own voices. while we girls were having dinner, P and the boys were drinking around the bonfire, speaking in Ilocano.

we had to sleep early for our trip to Batad. Tarits told me that Mark and Michelle were on their way to Banaue and will be joining us in the morning. P and i am used to taking showers before sleeping and today was no exception. i knew the water would be cold but i hadn't anticipated it to be freezing. when we got out of the bathroom, we were shaking all over.

P and i woke up before 6am. we hurriedly gathered our things as we were scheduled to move to Banaue View Inn. a few minutes later, Charles arrived with Mark and Michelle. we took some more photos and went down to have breakfast at Greenview Restaurant.

our room at the Banaue View Inn was facing the rice terraces. wouldn't it be nice to wake and see that in your window every morning?

the rented van was already waiting downstairs. after changing into something comfortable and ready for action, we traveled to Batad.

it took us about an hour to reach the top of the mountain (at least i thought it was already the top, but then again, i may be wrong) where the trekking starts. but we had to take pictures first. everything was wonderfully beautiful. i never saw so many mountains in my life.

Charles said we must have a wooden stick on our way to Tappiya. as soon as everyone was equipped with one, we started trekking. we were all laughing and taking photos during the first few steps down.

50,000 steps later (i didn't count but it felt like it), we stopped by Hillside Inn for some drinks, provision and breath. Tarits said we have to order our food now so it will be ready when we return. it was 11:00am. we started walking again.

Charles said the entire walk towards Tappiya is about one and a half hours. "noooo..." my feet menacingly whispered, "it's 3 hours..." and that's just going down.

80,000 steps more (i'm getting good at this estimating thing) and we could hear the falls. it started to rain when we got to the falls but we were all so excited. the water was cool and refreshing. after a few minutes of wading and splashing, we started back up. we reached Hillside Inn (and our lunch) at around 4pm. i had ordered "pizza" while P ordered pancit canton. hungry as i was, the pizza was a gastronomical disappointment. i gave it to the cat instead.

it was getting dark. Charles was feeling a bit woozy and Cinch was battling with her injured knees. the trek going back seemed longer. we weren't even halfway when darkness prevailed. P surprised me -- he could still see the path while i saw only darkness. good thing Tarits had her flashlight with her and patiently directed the light to the path ahead. i was walking in a trance-like state, watching P's every step, unmindful of the ravine to our left.

and oh... Charles was right about the wooden stick. when my legs and knees were threatening to go on a sit-down-no-more-walking strike, it was the wooden stick who acted as arbitrator.

halfway towards the hike, we got separated into two groups. P, Tarits and i walked several meters ahead while Cinch, Charles, Mark and Michelle followed behind. we rested for a while and i told Tarits i had to pee. "go ahead," she said, "it's dark anyway...". and so i did, right beside her and P. hee-hee...

when we were about a hundred meters away from the starting point, i wanted to say, "what would we do if upon reaching what we thought was the top but upon looking around we discover we were right back at the falls?" but i dared not. it wasn't a good idea to joke about something like that when one is scurrying to get out of the forest.

upon seeing the lights from the van, my energy zoomed. i walked faster and took my cellphone out of my pocket. cellphone signal!!!! i hurriedly called home. R was already worried that he hadn't received any text messages or calls from me the whole day. after saying goodnight to Ayel, i went inside the van and massaged my legs. we were all quiet on the way back to the inn.

upon reaching our room, P went with the others to buy water and snacks. i sat on the balcony and stared at the lights below... and thought about my two little girls. i've wanted to take Ayel along with us... but sitting there with my legs and thighs all stiff and throbbing, i was grateful that we didn't. minutes later, P and i took a cold bath (the hot shower was not working) and went to sleep. we're off to Sagada the next morning.

P wanted to have breakfast but it was too late. the others have finished theirs. packing our bags, we were ready for our trip to Sagada but we did some last minute souvenir shopping first, and of course, some more photo shots. i bought some wooden carvings, native bags and a hand-carved chair for Ayel. P fancied the hand-carved ifugao house made of narra. golly, P and i would have to think about how to take those wooden things home. later... later...

on the way, we stopped here and there along Bontoc for some pictures. we passed by Chico River -- it really is the longest river in the Philippines. we also visited Bontoc Museum, took some pictures before finally hitting the road to Sagada.

we had lunch at Masferre. it was the one meal i truly enjoyed during the course of our trip. then we headed straight to Residential Lodge -- towards a bed.... mwaaaaahhhh!!!!

we rested for a while before heading to Sumaging Cave. Cinch begged off, preferring to have her legs and thighs massaged by the local masseur instead.

our local guide Ben, said we were going 250 meters below. my thighs and legs were aching from the previous hike but i went on. we went down on hands and knees but it was fun. the funnest part was when Michelle refused to let go of the rope thinking she would fall into deep waters. she laughed hysterically when she realized the water was just below her knees.

we managed to get out of the cave alive. and whole. after Sumaging Cave, we stopped by the burial cave and stared at the ancient tombs. i was now walking funny with my legs and thighs aching every which way.

when we reached the inn, P and i showered and went down for dinner. all i wanted to eat was toasted bread and fried egg. P on the other hand wanted some vegetables that would go well with bagoong isda so he ordered fried talong. Michelle, Mark and Tarits ate out while Cinch slept on.

after dinner, P and i decided to make some coffee and watch tv at the inn's living room. a few minutes later, they joined us. Apocalypto was a nice and serious movie but we managed to make funny side comments and adlibs for the characters.

the next morning, P and i waited for the bus that will take us to Baguio. the others will take the afternoon trip. upon reaching Baguio, P and i went to Session Road and did some shopping -- jams, peanut brittles, the usual. then we went to Mines View Park to pass away the time. we were supposed to meet with the others but P was not feeling well so we headed back to Manila.

it was good to be home again. Ayel and little Anya were still up when we arrived. how i've missed them. P and i had a great time with friends up in the mountains -- it was a much-needed vacation away from stressful routine. but during the trip, there was one instance when i wanted to cut short our vacation and run home.

we were in Hiwang (Friday) when i received a text message from my mom, prompting me to call home. after that call, i locked myself inside the bathroom and cried.

Ayel has been used to seeing me home at around 6:30-7:00. when 7:30 came she became restless and would only brighten up each time the dogs barked. she would ran towards the door crying "Mami?!?"

taking my mom's hand, Ayel prodded her to walk outside towards the main street to wait for me. as they stood in the waiting shed, Ayel kept saying "Mami... Mami..." it was getting cold outside so my mom took her back in.

it broke my heart to hear Ayel's voice on the phone. R said Ayel was kissing the phone as she was saying goodbye to me.

P and i have plans of making several trips from hereon. Corregidor and Vigan is next on our list this year. one thing i've realized about our trip up the mountains is that i could never make another vacation without taking the little girls along with us.

we've survived Tappiya... we've conquered Sumaging... i'm pretty sure we can manage two energetic little girls and several baggages on the side.

for the complete travelogue, visit : Back to Banaue & Sagada Travel Blog (by tarits) http://realtravel.com/banaue-journals-j7745431.html